Amazing Photo of Shuttle Endeavour Over Bernal Hill Reminds Us That OMFG It’s Been an Intense Autumn

If you crack open the current issue of San Francisco magazine — it’s printed on paper! — and look inside at page 28, you’ll find a rather stunning photo by Gregory Cowley that shows Shuttle Endeavour soaring over Bernal Hill on the morning of September 21, 2012.

Remember that? It was a glorious day less than two months ago, yet somehow it already feels like ancient history. That may be because the arrival of Endeavour in the skies above Bernal kicked off a rather momentous and intense series of events that will make the Autumn of 2012 memorable for a long time to come. Let’s review the highs and lows of the last few weeks:

Against a backdrop of all that otherworldly news, it seems appropriate that this period began with the spectacle of a spaceship circling lazily over our neighborhood. We have enjoyed euphoric highs and witnessed poignant reminders that our bliss is fragile. It’s wonderful and exhausting, all at the same time.

That’s why there’s solace to be found in the transcendent rhythms of geography, geology, and the ebb and flow of the seasons. Neighbor Ros put that in perspective nicely yesterday…

… with a coda provided by her photo of Bernal Hill, where it all began:

PHOTOS: Shuttle Endeavour by Gregory Cowley via San Francisco Magazine (Hat tip: Genevieve . Bernal Hill, by Yarrcat

Giants World Series Victory Triggers Euphoria Across Bernal Heights

Giants World Series Celebration

Giants World Series Celebration

Giants World Series Celebration

Giants World Series Celebration

Giants World Series Celebration

Oh, hey… didya hear? The San Francisco Giants won the 2012 World Series. Seriously! Afterward, fans in Bernal Heights were just a little bit excited.

I took in the scene from the corner of Mission and Precita, where revelers set up an orange-and-black balloon conga line for motorists to traverse. There were lots of smiles,  lots of people saying “Wooooooooooooo!” and many, many high-fives.

Giants World Series Celebration

Here’s a video, for full audio effect:

Things even got loopy on Cortland Street, as seen in this photo by The New Wheel:

Congratulations, San Francisco Giants!!

(PS: Have more photos from last night? Send ’em to us and I’ll post the greatest hits here.)

PHOTOS AND VIDEOS: Telstar Logistics, except for final image, by The New Wheel

Neighbor David Talbot Laments the Tech-Fueled Gentrification of Bernal Heights

Yesterday’s post about the impact the Silicon Valley commuter shuttle network is having on Bernal Heights pairs neatly with the article by Bernal neighbor David Talbot that appears on the cover of the current issue of San Francisco magazine.

Under the headline “How Much Tech Can One City Take?” Neighbor David considers how the growth of the tech industry is changing the texture of San Francisco, and in one part of the article, he looks at this through the prism of our own Precita Park:

I’m sitting at a table outside the new Precita Park café in Bernal Heights, a gourmet sandwich shop that’s one sign of the changing times. When I moved to this neighborhood in 1993, just before the first dot-com boom, I avoided taking my two toddlers to the playground across the street from the café, because local gangs sometimes stashed their guns in the sand. And yet, despite gunfire from the old Army Street projects that often shattered the neighborhood’s sleep, Bernal Heights in those years was a glorious urban mix of deeply rooted blue-collar families, underground artists, radical activists, and lesbian settlers. The neighborhood had a funky character as well as a history. The famed cartoonist R. Crumb once hung his hat there, and his old Zap Comics sidekick, the brilliant Spain Rodriguez, still does.

But at some point the new tech boom began to make its presence felt in Bernal Heights, whose sunny hills are close to not only SoMa startups but also the Highway 101 shuttle line to Silicon Valley. Nowadays, you see Lexus SUVs parked in the driveways on Precita Avenue. Young masters of the universe in Ivy League sweatshirts buy yogurt and organic peaches at the corner stores where Cuervo flasks and cans of Colt 45 were once the most popular items.

“We cleaned up this neighborhood—stopped the violence in the projects—but now we can’t afford to live here anymore,” says Buck Bagot who has been a Bernal Heights community organizer and housing activist since 1976. “When I moved here, every house on my block had a different ethnicity. There were Latinos, blacks, American Indians, Samoans, Filipinos. They had good union jobs, and they could raise their families here. Now they’re all gone.” These days Bagot fights to block home foreclosures as the cofounder of Occupy Bernal, engaged in a battle to preserve the neighborhood’s diverse character that he admits often feels futile.

Sitting outside the café, I’m joined by another longtime Bernal resident, a 47-year-old San Francisco public school librarian. She moved to the neighborhood in 1994 with her partner, a public school teacher, when many of their lesbian friends were settling here, attracted by the relatively cheap rents. “There were a lot of us—we were young, politically active, and underpaid, but we could afford to live here in those days,” she says. “But now that we have kids, we’re being priced out.” The librarian—who asks that her name not be used because she’s concerned that any notoriety will hurt her chances of entering the tight housing market—says that she and her partner have bid on five houses this year. But they lost each time to buyers who could afford to put up tens of thousands of dollars over the sellers’ asking price—and all in cash. “Who are these people, with that kind of money?” she asks.

The librarian and her partner dread the idea of moving out of the city. San Francisco is in their souls: They fell in love here, they took to the streets here as young dyke activists, and they have a combination of 22 years seniority in the public school system. They can’t imagine moving their family to some remote suburb, where their kids would likely be the only ones with two moms. But it’s getting harder each day to hold on. To make ends meet, they have begun to moonlight as dog trainers “I don’t want to blame young tech workers,” says the librarian. “I’d hate to sound like some grumpy ‘get off my lawn’ type. I mean, I love technology. I’m an early adopter. But if people like us, who helped make San Francisco what it is, get pushed out of the city, who’s going to teach the next generation of kids? Who’s going to take care of them in the hospital?”

OK, so… This kind of “Woe Unto Bernal” essay is fast becoming a local sub-genre; Neighbor Peter Orner recently penned a similar lament, also about Precita Park, for The New York Times.

The issues both describe are very real: Gentrification, change, displacement, uncertainty, and the pain of watching longtime neighbors forced to move because of the inexorable economics of local real estate. Nevertherless, I had a much more sympathetic reaction to Neighbor’s Peter’s piece in the NYT than to Neighbor David’s piece in San Francisco.

Why? I’m not exactly sure, except perhaps because Peter’s piece felt more like an open-ended question to me, while David’s article was infused with an unfortunate kind of Baby Boomer myopia, as if all meaningful culture ended sometime around the time when Fleetwood Mac released the “Rumours” album.

More importantly, though, while the underlying issues of gentrification are real and challenging, it’s unfortunate that Neighbor David neglects to recognize that Bernal Heights is now a home to a glorious urban mix of deeply rooted families, underground artists, technology innovators, cutting-edge musicians, groundbreaking journalists, stalwart activists, assorted oddballs, and lesbian gentry. Plus: The Bikini Jogger.

Yes, the mix is changing. But it remains deeply funky, and passionately connected to this place we all love to call home. Of course we mourn the loss of friends and neighbors who, for whatever reason, cannot stay. The problems of gentrification defy easy solutions. Yet many of us also see meaningful continuity amid the tumult and change, because we know that Bernal Heights has never been a better or stronger neighborhood than it is today.

IMAGE: Original photo illustration by Peter Belanger for San Francisco, photo illustrated by Bernalwood

Star Sighting: Shuttle Endeavour Soars Over Bernal Heights

Well, that was rather epic, wasn’t it?

When we told you yesterday that the pilot of the Boeing 747 carrying the Space Shuttle Endeavour would be thinking of Bernal Heights as he flew over San Francisco, we weren’t kidding. But we didn’t realize that meant he would actually fly the thing right over our neighborhood!

Yet that’s what happened (because Bernalwood is glamorous like that). A little after 10 am today, Shuttle Endeavour made a big sweeping pass over Sutrito Tower and the Dominion of Bernalwood, amid much rejoicing and clicking of camera shutters.

From atop the hill, Neighbor Charlie took this terrific shot of the shuttle floating past Sutro Tower:

Neightbors Jeanne and Taina enjoyed a Tomorrowland view from their Bernal Heights living room:

Anthony Brown, Bernal’s finest penguinologist, was on the Hill, and he captured this video of the fly-by, which may be the next best thing to having been there:

And since it was a day for star-sightings, it’s only natural that Endeavour’s arrival coincided with a cameo by another elusive celebrity: The Bikini Jogger!

But let’s back up for a moment. Your Bernalwood editor got to spend some serious quality time with Endeavour yesterday while it was at Edwards Air Force Base, courtesy of the very generous folks at NASA. So if you enjoyed the view of the Shuttle over Bernal Heights today, here’s a glimpse of what it looked like up close:

Endeavour and 747 SCA

Shuttle Endeavour

Shuttle Endeavour

Endeavour and 747 SCA

Shuttle Endeavour

Wow. Quite a day to remember. Someday, you can tell your grandkids that you not only saw the Space Shuttle fly over Bernal Heights, but you also saw the Space Shuttle fly on the last day that any Shuttle took to the skies, ever. It was just another glamorous day of history-in-the-making here in Bernalwood… and you were there.

PHOTOS: Bernal photos, from top: Erin Veneziano, DenSF, Stephen Woods, Milk DragonMatthew Gilreath, Xtel, Wirednerd,  Joe Thomas. Bikini Jogger by sfcitymom. Shuttle closeups by Telstar Logistics

BASA Visits NASA to Say Farewell to Space Shuttle Endeavor

20120919-092516.jpg
It was bound to happen sooner or later. Today, as you read this now, a representative from BASA, Bernal’s very own space agency, is visiting a facility operated by NASA, that *other* space agency you may have heard about.

Specifically, your Bernalwood editor is spending a few days at NASA’s Dryden Research Center at Edwards Air Force Base in Southern California. BASA is here at NASA’s invitation to watch Space Shuttle Endeavor arrive on the back of it’s specially modified Boeing 747 carrier aircraft, which is scheduled to happen tomorrow. If the past is any guide, it should look something like this:

But the thing is, this is not only the last time a space shuttle will fly on the back of a 747; It’s the very last time a shuttle will fly at all. Ever. Endeavor is headed to its permanent home at the California Science Center in Los Angeles, and it’s the last of the retired shuttle fleet to require transportation via 747.

But before that happens, there will be adventure. Early Friday morning, NASA’s special 747 will take off from Edwards. From there it will fly north, to the Bay Area, for a scenic low-and-slow flight over Silicon Valley and the City of San Francisco. (PRO TIPS: NASA tells us the shuttle flight should arrive over San Francisco between 9 and 10 am on Friday morning. Bayfront vantage points between the Golden Gate Bridge and downtown will probably be best, but the view may be pretty good from Bernal Hill with binoculars. Please take photos!)

And then that’s it. Forever. Maybe you will live long enough to see another Transit of Venus from Bernal Hill. But you will never, ever see another space shuttle flying over Our Faire City — or anywhere else. Sad but true.

Keep an eye on the @bernalwood Twitter account for updates and announcements on the Shuttle overflight. Viva BASA! Thank you, NASA!

What Happened to the Old Cancilla’s Market Sign, and What You Could Do With It in Your Living Room

Once upon a time not really all that long ago, the Precita Park storefront on the corner of Folsom and Bessie that we now call Harvest Hills was a rather typical corner store known as Cancilla’s Market.

It was called Cancilla’s Market for several generations and many moons, until the space changed hands. Today’s Harvest Hills has a decidedly more gourmet flavor, and little now remains of the former Cancilla’s except the funky midcentury San Francisco wallpaper that still lines the walls. All the other bits and pieces of the old place have been scattered to the wind — including the big Cancilla’s Market sign that used to hang out front. Until now.

The former Cancilla’s Market sign has resurfaced in Sacramento, and Bernalwood has learned that it has been repurposed for use as a home media center.

Wait… what?

Artist Cody Lane contacted Bernalwood to explain:

I am an artist/builder of things in Sacramento CA. I purchased this sign some time ago at a used furniture store in Davis CA, and it transformed it into a media center or book shelf. The piece will accommodate a flat screen up to 50″ and components. The Cancillas sign was a lucky find and it’s a really interesting piece of functional found art. The sign is for sale, and I can deliver and install if needed.

Email Cody if you’d like to watch television inside a genuine slice of Bernal Heights history.

PHOTOS: via Cody Lane

Soviet Invasion Forces Uninterested in Bernal Heights

La Lengua separatist and rebel spokesblogger Burrito Justice recently found an interesting Cold War-era map of the San Francisco Bay Area that was produced by military cartographers in the former Soviet Union:

The Soviets (good god, that sounds weird now) went to town mapping the world for their Cold War needs. This particular SF map is 200000:1, but they detailed some cities to 25000:1, and others down to 10000:1, highlighting tank-friendly roads and important buildings.

The excerpt shown above (click to enlarge) suggests that Bernal Heights might have fared relatively well during a Soviet ground invasion. Notice, for example, that Cortland Ave. was not recommended as a tank-friendly transport route, while the Sutrito microwave telecommunications tower is not highlighted as a militarily significant structure.

So we’ve got that going for us.

IMAGE: Via Burrito Justice

Ode to the Precita Playground Satellite Spinner

The citizens of Precitaville breathed a big sigh of relief when we learned that the upcoming glamorous makeover of Precita Park would not jeopardize the future of the playground’s much-loved “penultimate satellite spinner.”

The satellite spinner has been here for a long time, and it occupies a special place in the hearts of many Bernalese.

Neighbor Orlando has also been here for a long time, and he recently wrote a moving ode to the Satellite Spinner that reveals it to be not just a piece of playground equipment, but an essential link to life’s essentials:

I am relieved and thrilled with joy that the “penultimate satellite spinner” is not to be messed with. I held on to it with a death grip as I learned to walk as a toddler,  fearing of a hard landing in the sand beneath it. I sat on it holding hands with a girlfriend, dipping our tender toes in the cool sand as a teenager when I fell in love for the first time. And not too long ago, I visited it as a middle aged man when I was grieving the end of my fathers hard life. It is included in the background of many sets of kodak film of two generations in my family. Family that have passed away as the years have gone by. The cars, clothing, and hair dos of the folks in these pictures tell the story of what life was like in the years when they where taken. This “penultimate satellite spinner” has outlived many of the playgrounds make overs. It will outlive me. I hope it is there for me to sit on as I approach the final years of my life. I hope and I wish that perhaps, as I grow older and my life comes closer to its end, it will be there so I can once again hold on to it with that familiar death grip that I learned so well in the beginning.

PHOTO: Precita Playground Satellite Spinner, June 2012, by Telstar Logistics

One Year Later, Remembering the SFFD’s Lt. Vincent Perez

It’s been only slightly more than a year since the death of San Francisco Firefighter Lt. Vincent Perez. As you may remember, Perez was the SFFD veteran who was raised on Wool Street in Bernal Heights; he died a hero on June 2, 2011 while battling a residential blaze in Diamond Heights.

But here’s a spooky wrinkle to the story: Recently, someone on Flickr pointed out to me that Perez featured prominently in a picture I’d taken in 2008 with Bernalwood’s Cub Reporter, when she was just a year old:

That’s Vincent Perez on the right. The photo was taken on Cortland Street, just a few months after the Cub Reporter had learned to walk. I’ve always loved this pic because Perez looks like a Central Casting vision of a firefighter. Plus, the Cub Reporter clearly had a thing for guys in uniform.

Well, as you can see at the very top of this post, someone from Local 798 found my photo as well, and they used it in a poster for the memorial fund created in his honor. Which is an honor unto itself. It was just a passing moment for the Cub Reporter and me as we walked down Cortland that day in 2008, but I’m glad it stands as a fitting way to remember one of Bernal’s Finest.

UPDATE, 20 June, 2012: We just received this note from Victoria Terheyden, Director of Communications at Archbishop Riordan High School:

Your Tuesday tribute to Lt. Vincent Perez on Bernalwood put a smile on my face. I was charged with putting together a poster for the event with some photos given to me by Local 798 and Vincent’s friends and families. We couldn’t get over the one of him and Cub Reporter–so cute! I know that will be a lovely keepsake for her and for your family.

The event on Saturday was a great day to honor a great man, and we are pleased to partner with Local 798 to establish the Vincent Perez Scholarship Fund at Archbishop Riordan High School. Donations in his honor can be made by visiting http://www.riordanhs.org, or by contacting Local 798, 415-621-7103.

PHOTOS: Top, Local 798. Below, Telstar Logistics

Re-Create the Excitement of GGB75 (Without Leaving Bernal)

As you might have heard, the Golden Gate Bridge celebrated its 75th anniversary last weekend. Woo-hoo!

Naturally, much of the celebration took place close to the bridge, in the area around Crissy Field. But from our exalted heights here in Bernal, it was possible to take in some of the special events without having to combat all the crowds and congestion along the waterfront.

If you happened to wander up Bernal Hill on Sunday, you might have noticed an unusual ship moored to the east, out on the Bay:

USS Nimitz

It’s the USS Nimitz, a Navy aircraft carrier that made a special cameo appearance in San Francisco to participate in GGB75. As you can see above, the big ship made a fine addition to Bernal Hill’s standard panorama, while reminding us all of decades past, when many Bernal Heights residents worked at the San Francisco Naval Shipyard over in Hunter’s Point.

Of course, the big fireworks show was the highlight of the GGB75 celebration. It took place right around bedtime for Bernalwood’s Cub Reporter, so we stayed inside our North Slope home to watch the colorful clouds of glowing smoke and occasional high-altitude air burst from the safety and comfort of the Cub Reporter’s bedroom. Lucky kid — her room has the best views in the house.

I’m sure the views were even better from atop Bernal Hill, but in case you missed that too, here’s the next best thing: a professionally produced video of the entire fireworks spectacle, complete with the musical soundtrack:

PHOTOS: Top, cellphone pic of GGB fireworks from Bernal Hill, by valjoy9. USS Nimitz by Telstar Logistics

Ancient Decal Reveals Primitive Origins of La Lengua Identity

To properly manage the delicate relationship between the Dominion of Bernalwood and our rebellious vassals from La Lengua, it is important for us to understand the longstanding roots of the La Lenguans’ search for autonomy.

Neighbor Ben recently discovered an important artifact that should assist in this quest for historical context. Hiding in plain sight on a vacant Mission Street storefront just north of 30th Street, he found a vintage decal which pledges fealty to the “South of Army – Mission Merchants Association.”

Who were these proto-La Lenguans? What can we infer about the people who roamed the flatlands in the days before Army Street became Cesar Chavez Boulevard? The decal’s intimation that “He Knows You – You Know Him” suggests they were a paternalistic tribe that was closely bound by kinship ties and sharply-defined notions of geographic solidarity.

Minus the paternalistic bias, the same might be said of the La Lenguans of 2012. The contemporary articulation of La Lengua identity is a relatively recent phenomenon, but this decal demonstrates that the area’s sense of geographic “otherness” has been present for a very long time. Good to know.

PHOTO: Neighbor Ben

Fifty Years Ago: “Ugly Hill to Be Beautified” with Construction of New Microwave Relay Tower

I printed this article off the microfilm at the San Francisco Main Library, but unfortunately, the accompanying photo came out badly. It’s obviously a view looking east, and there looks to be a structure on top of the hill, despite the future-tense description of the microwave array (“sometime late in 1963 if all goes well”). The structure looks a bit like a trailer, or prefabricated shack, with a dish-like antenna facing east.

A few highlights from the article, before the full text (which is presented below):

  • Pacific Telephone paid $90,000 for the land (a little more than one acre) at the top of the hill.
  • They promised no fences. I’ve read elsewhere that this plan changed due to persistent graffiti. Fortunately, the fence completely stopped the graffiti problem. Not.
  • It’s a bit anachronistic to call new the tower Sutrito: for the first ten years of its existence there was no Sutro Tower. (I’m not going to let that stop me.)

Here’s the complete article:

UNIQUE PLAN FOR BERNAL HEIGHTS
Ugly Hill to Be Beautified

Thursday, May 31, 1962

By GEORGE DUSHECK
News-Call Bulletin Staff Writer

[Photo caption: Bernal Hill today: the new approach will concentrate on beauty as well as function]

An odd surgical team — the city and the Pacific Telephone Co. — shortly will undertake to repair the scarred face of Bernal Heights.

Both hope the result will justify a new approach to industrial development in San Francisco, with new emphasis on beauty as well as function. The plan has been worked out jointly by telephone company engineers and administrators, and city planners.

PACIFIC TELEPHONE bought a little more than one acre (for $90,000) on the 20-acre brow of Bernal Heights, standing 430 feet high in the outer Mission District. It will put a 400-circuit microwave relay station, a link in a nationwide chain which complements telephone lines and underground cables, on this site. It is a $2 million project.

The building which houses the electronic equipment will be thoroughly screened with silver wattle trees, small gum trees and oaks. Wild lilac and creeping manzanita will be planted farther down the slope.

Only the microwave antenna will rise above the trees. A proposal by planner Ruth Joffe to make the antenna itself a kind of free-form sculpture or monument was reluctantly abandoned as not feasible.

The landscaping will go beyond the company’s own site. In addition, the company will use the earth and rock it excavates from the hilltop to smooth over an ugly scar on the south face of the hill; a scar caused by 30 years of quarrying by the city.

When the job is done — sometime in late 1963 if all goes well — the city Planning Dept. and Pacific Telephone hope Bernal Heights will be a handsome park, instead of a scarred, grassy knob.

The knob takes it name from Juan Francisco Bernal, a soldier who accompanied Juan Bautista de Anza to the Bay Area in 1776. Bernal was given more then 4400 acres surrounding his knob — or about seven square miles of what is now the Mission District, Bayview District, and Diamond Heights. Potrero Heights was the pasture for his cattle.

ONLY THE top of the hill remains in public hands.

From it one gets an exhilarating view of San Francisco’s downtown, to the north; the Bay and its shoreline industry to the east; San Bruno Mountain and the intervening hills, to the south; Twin Peaks and Mount Davidson to the west.

The hill face which has not been quarried is covered with wild grasses; one bright windy day recently a visitor saw wild hollyhock, wild radish, and California poppies blooming there.

Henry Morris, the telephone company’s district manager (and a grandson of former Mayor Angelo Rossi), is enthusiastic about the project.

“The city planners have been patient and helpful,” he says. “Ruth Joffe worked many hours with our people, helping them to make the access road conform to the hill’s contours, to curve the roof of the structure to conform to the hill, to use some native trees and shrubs for landscaping.

“We think the result will enhance the city. The microwave station is badly needed to supplement the cable crossings. When the station is in operation San Francisco will have a modern communications link with the east, north, and south.”

San Francisco’s chief planner, James McCarthy, agrees.

“Bernal Heights has been an eyesore for a generation,” he said. “The landscaping project around the microwave station is a step in the right direction.”

THE AREA will be open to the public — no fences. The high voltage power lines which serve the station will be underground. Eventually the Planning Dept. would like to have the Recreation and Park Dept. take over the hilltop from the Works Dept. Chief Administrative Office Sherman Duckel says:

“There won’t be any more quarrying on the hill. It was started by the WPA during the 30’s, and continued by the city on a small scale until half a dozen years ago. I’m now convinced the area should be a park.”

Through co-operation between a corporation and the city, it may become one.

Mission accomplished!

hill top dream

PHOTO: Patrick Boury

A Stoneman Connection Links Bernal Heights to Levon Helm

The death of Levon Helm, the former lead singer for The Band, late last week prompted a lot of media remembrances, yet the most interesting one I read was an oral history of the The Band’s signature song, “The Night They Drove Old Dixie Down.” Levon Helm sang the lead vocals in the song, of course, but here’s a version of it from “The Last Waltz” in case you need a refresher:

Anyhow, back to that excellent oral history of “The Night They Drove Old Dixie Down.” This passage jumped out at me:

[“The Night They Drove Old Dixie Down”] was the track that came to be seen as most typical of The Band album. Levon sings the song in the persona of Virgil Caine, a Confederate ex-soldier who served on the Danville supply train until General Stoneman’s Union cavalry troops tore up the tracks. The Richmond and Danville Rail Road was the main supply route into Petersburg where Lee’s Army of Northern Virginia were holding their defensive line to protect Richmond.

Stoneman was a pretty obscure character. You have to get into detailed histories of the Civil War to find him mentioned.

David Powell

General George Stoneman, c. 1860

In the closing days of the war, Major General George Stoneman, as the commander of the East Tennessee district, oversaw a raid by a division of Union troops across the rugged Blue Ridge Mountians into northwest North Carolina and southwest Virginia. Their orders were not to fight battles but to punish and demoralize the Southern civilians. Stoneman, having previously served under General Sherman in the Georgia campaign, had learned Sherman’s methods of “total war”– the concept of targeting civilian as well as military objectives in order to destroy the enemy’s will to resist. Stoneman’s cavalry troops were still exacting revenge on the Southern civilians at the time that General Robert E. Lee was surrendering at Appomattox. Stoneman’s forces plundered & destroyed tons of supplies, including foodstocks & grain, along with miles of railroad supply tracks. Even after the shooting war ended, they assisted in chasing down and capturing Confederate President Jefferson Davis. After the war, Stoneman remained in the regular army until he retired in 1871 at the rank of Colonel. He moved to California and lived on a large estate called “Los Robles” near Los Angeles. As a Democrat, he held several public offices and was Governor of the state from 1883 to 1887. Stoneman died on September 5, 1894 in Buffalo, New York. Even though Stoneman, on the surface, may appear to be just a footnote in the history of the Civil War, in that part of the U.S. where the borders of Tennessee, North Carolina & Virginia meet, his name lives in infamy. The exploits of his plundering cavalry troops in the last days of a defeated Confederacy are still a part of local legend. In this respect, I feel that Robbie Robertson succeeded in capturing this sentiment accurately in the song. 

I hadn’t realized that part of the song referred to an actual historical figure, and I immediately wondered if there was any connection between the Stoneman that Levon Helm sang about and the street by the same name in Bernal Heights.

Thanks to our excellent friends at the Bernal History Project (and their webpage devoted to the history of Bernal Heights street names), the answer soon became clear. Bernal’s Stoneman Street is indeed named after the same person:

Stoneman Street
A West Pointer who came to San Francisco in 1846 as a lieutenant in the Mormon Battalion, George Stoneman (1822-1894) was a career military commander with an uneven record in numerous Civil War campaigns. A major general, he freed the prisoners at Andersonville and led cavalry raids into the Confederacy. After leaving the Army, he settled in the San Gabriel Valley and was elected California governor, 1883-87. Camp Stoneman, a 2,500-acre Army base opened in 1942 near Pittsburg in Contra Costa County, was the jumping off place for more than a million troops headed for the Pacific Theater in World War II. It was later the separation center for soldiers returning from the Korean Conflict. The base was shut down in 1954. The cavalryman’s name was remembered in a different context when The Band, in a 1970 song by Robbie Robertson, included this couplet: Virgil Caine is the name, and I served on the Danville train/Till Stoneman’s cavalry came and tore up the tracks again.

In addition, let us not forget that Gen. Stoneman also leant his name to the chairlift that carries skiers and snowboarders up Bernal Hill’s steep north face. There’s no evidence in the historical record that Stoneman himself ever actually skied here, but even if he did, I very much doubt that The Band would have written a song about it.

PHOTOS: Top, mr.nunez.sfo, via Flickr. Gen. George Stoneman, via Wikipedia