An Update on the Effort to Save Our Historic Coca-Cola Mural

Vintage Coke Sign

I drove by Bernal’s historic and controversial Coke mural last week to see how it was doing. I was happy to see that a) it hasn’t been temporarily covered up, and b) the unsightly violation notice from the City Planning Department had disappeared too. Later, I asked homeowner Richard Modolo for an update on the sign, and the legislative effort by Supervisor David Campos to save it.  Here’s what Richard had to say:

To bring you up to date, the permit to temporarily cover the Coke sign is on hold with the Planning Department, and I’m told that this is a good thing. Supervisor Campos “CC’d” me on a very nice letter he sent to the Zoning Department, requesting they hold off on any penalties or fines while this works its way through the legislative process. That process is currently with the City Attorney’s office. They are going to come up with the correct wording to preserve the sign and see that it is attached to the recorded property information/deed.

As for the violation notice from the Planning Department, it was either torn off of or the rain got to it, so for now only the tape marks remain. My plan it to restore the sign once we have the “OK” to preserve it. The wheels grind slowly, but I hear they are moving a little every day.

PHOTO: Bernal Coke sign in situ, on April 1, 2011 by Telstar Logistics

Your April 2011 Bernalwood Real Estate Report

Coso Square

Danielle Lazier is a realtor with Zephyr Real Estate, the author of SFHotlist, and Bernalwood’s unofficial real estate analyst. Here’s her latest update on the residential real estate market in Bernal Heights:

Maybe, just maybe, the worst is behind us for the local San Francisco real estate market. Since January here in Bernal Heights, real estate sales have picked up speed with no sign of a slowdown. On the other hand, the housing market is cyclical so just like other markets, it’ll continue to go “up and down” and “up and down” and “up” again.

Most of my “evidence” of an improvement in the Bernal Heights real estate market is anecdotal. Along with being cyclical, markets are also driven by psychology — what we believe will be, will be. Home buyers are feeling more optimistic with a greater sense of urgency this year than I’ve seen since pre-2008. They tell me they are motivated to buy while interest rates are still low, and they believe that prices are starting to slowly head up. They are frustrated by the lack of inventory, meaning there are not enough homes on the market to satisfy the number of qualified buyers ready to buy.

All this sounds like realtor BS, doesn’t it? Believe me or don’t, but realtors are seeing strong demand for the nice, quality homes. (More on that in a moment.)

Here’s a little bit of analysis: We’ve had 28 single family home sales in Bernal since January, with a median sales price of $761,818.00 and the average listing selling for 2.14% over the asking price. Last year, January through March 2010, there were 32 sales, but the median price was $719,000.00 and sales averaged 0.83% over the list price.

The market remains “Darwinian,” with the nicest (fittest) homes selling super quickly while homes “in need of a make-over” take longer. Plus, buyers remain price-sensitive, so it’s important to price your home based on today’s market and recent, relevant homes sales. The property needs to feel like good value for the money for buyers to go for it. (Crazy! Wouldn’t you want value for your money too?) I, for one, hope this very rational behavior continues through the next “up” cycle.

But I do think the worst is behind us. so it’s a good time to look back and assess. Just how much did the Great Recession affect Bernal home values?

(Quick refresher: Lehman Brothers “fell” in the Fall of 2008. Many use this as the apex of when the bleep hit the fan although the real estate downturn began earlier.)

Using the San Francisco Multiple Listing Service (MLS) for the data, I charted the median sales price of a single family house listing in Bernal Heights from the beginning of 2008 to the beginning of 2011.

Q1 2008 = $785,000
Q1 2011 = $760,000
% Change = -3.2%

Granted, this data is for all single family homes, and we know that there is a huge variation of property in Bernal. Yet this is pretty interesting, isn’t it? I would say that a 3.2% decline over the course of the worst economic slump since the Great Depression is pretty freaking good. (For context, using the same scope of data, our neighbors in the Excelsior had a 25.3% drop in their median home sales price.)

When was the “bottom” of the market, you ask? My opinion is that San Francisco-wide, the bottom of this housing downturn too place during 2009. Here in Bernal, it was the first half of ’09:

Q1 2009 = $730,000
Q2 2009 = $715,000

So where does this leave us? On the one hand, Spring is the air and the mood is dramatically better than last year. On the other hand, the economic recovery is tenuous, and banks remain a bureaucratic mess. Maybe it’s too soon to pop the bubbly, but believe me when I say that what you believe will be.  See you next month!

PHOTO: sftajan

Major Fire on Mission Street at Valencia

3208-3216 Mission Street

Mission Street Fire

Major fire and lots of sirens tonight on Mission Street at Valencia in the West Bernal/La Lengua Liminal Zone.  One of the buildings between Blue Plate and Royal Cuckoo caught fire and spread to the adjacent structure. Will update as we learn more.

Here’s a video:

UPDATE: April 7, 2011, 10:18 AM

The real journalists at MissionLoc@l bring more detail:

Fire Department officials believe the blaze started at 3212 Mission, a white Victorian building with blue trim.

But smoke was pouring from the space between that building and the one next door, which houses the Vietnamese restaurant Lotus Garden. At around 9:30 p.m. it appeared that firefighters were tearing down walls between the two buildings.

Restaurant owner Kathy Tang said great amounts of smoke and fire filled her kitchen in the back before she left with her kids. She saw firefighters breaking walls and ripping them down, and she’s fearful about what will be left of her restaurant.

California Beat adds that one firefighter was injured while battling the blaze:

One firefighter suffered minor injuries and was transported to San Francisco General Hospital for treatment, according to San Francisco Fire Chief Joanne Hayes-White.

Finally, in the comments to this post, reader Rusty adds his own perspective:

I walked over there, I’m impressed with the large SFFD response. 4 Aerial Trucks (ladders), at least 4 or 5 engines, support vehicles, etc. The Red Cross was on scene as well, they had provide blankets (to act as jackets) to the people who were displaced form the building. I saw at least 10 people who were displaced, feel terrible for them :-(

The fire seemed to affect mostly the rear of the buildings in question, the fronts of them looked fine, but I’m sure there is a lot of water damage. The buildings go deep so who knows how much damage was done to the rears.

Considering the high winds when the fire broke out, SFFD knocked most of the fire out really quickly.

Burrito Justice has a sad photo of the day after; it all looks surprisingly normal from street level, as the worst of the fire struck the back of the building(s). Let the rebuilding begin:

Special thanks to our neighbors at MissionMission for their great coverage.

Photos: From top, Bob Horowitz, Jeffrey RueppelMissionMission, Faye Harris, Burrito Justice.

Science Experiment: My Dinner at Caffe Cozzolino

Restaurant of Mystery

The news that the mysterious old Old Clam House has been transformed into the mysterious new Old Clam House prompted a discussion in the comments about another timeless (and mysterious) Bernal Heights restaurant: Caffe Cozzolino on Folsom Street, at the southwest corner of Precita Park.

Caffe Cozzolino is a spacioius Italian restaurant blessed with an unbelievably ideal location, but the place is never, ever crowded. In fact, it usually looks empty. And since it is always empty and suffers from horrific word-of-mouth, one part of the mystery is this: How does Caffe Cozzolino stay in business?

I live around the corner from Cozzolino. I’ve walked by it hundreds of times. But I’ve never dared to eat there. Someday, however, someone might swoop in to purchase Caffe Cozzolino and transform the space into the dining hotspot that the location so wants to become. In the name of science and inquiry, I felt obliged to sample the current cuisine, so that I might have a first-hand opinion to express if that scenario ever comes to pass.

Thus with an open mind and a spirit of adventure, I took my 3.5 year-old daughter on a date to Caffe Cozzolino. My simple hope was that the restaurant would serve up solid Italian-American cuisine. That means Italian food that’s less Mario Batali and more Tony Soprano. (I grew up in New Jersey, so I think I have a fair palette for that kind of grub.) Joe’s of Westlake does this well. Pasta Pomodoro franchised a totally acceptable version of it. Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack elevated it to a form of street art.

But Caffe Cozzolino doesn’t come close to pulling it off. I kept it simple by ordering spaghetti and meatballs. Spaghetti and meatballs! A staple! Here’s how it looked:

Spaghetti Cozzolino

Lovely parsley. So how did it taste? Frankly, rather ungood. I’m convinced the sauce came from a can — and a very cheap can. I’ve had better spaghetti and meatballs at truck stops, sad to say.

My daughter ordered a pizza from the kid’s menu:

Pizza Cozzolino

It was okay. No real complaints. But no inspiration either.

Put simply, the food at Caffe Cozzolino is unlikely to generate many wails of Proustian nostalgia if the restaurant were to close. That part of the mystery is now resolved. But the mystery of how Caffe Cozzolino remains in business endures.

The Best Thing About Bernal Heights Cannot Be Seen in Maps or Statistics

IMG_6737
Blogger Eleven Twenty-Nine lives on the west side of Bernal Heights, and she recently experienced one of those flushes of Bernal-love that transcends the physical charm of our village on a hill — because it’s rooted in a deep appreciation for the people who make the neighborhood feel so much like home. She writes:

Besides the obvious beauty of our neighborhood — we are lucky to overlook the whole city from the top of the hill — we are so lucky to have a great community. Whether it’s right next door or half a mile away, there are people we trust, who care about us and our home, and who we’ll go out of our way for when they need it.

We’ve often thought about how much we value this aspect of our neighborhood and whether, if we’d known about it, we would have paid a premium to live here. When looking for a new place to live there are so many things to factor in: walk scores, school zones, proximity to shops and restaurants, parks, etc. But what about having friendly neighbors and a sense of belonging and safety?

In a city like San Francisco, where everyone seems to be too busy to really connect with other people, the surprise of building a community with our neighbors has been invaluable.

PHOTO: Benadamx

Bernalwood’s Wild Kingdom, or How To Deal With Unwanted Guests

We’ve had mice, we’ve had rats, we’ve had raccoons living between the house and the neighbor’s house, we’ve had a falcon standing on our back deck, we’ve had friends who just hang around too long at the end of a party… but maybe I’ve said too much.

Here’s our latest run-in with a frequent visitor to our backyard who likes us so much he’s taken up residence in our crap-filled garage. I hope you can learn something from this.

Greetings From Our “Tres Old-World Euro Village”


Here is one of the fringe benefits of living in Bernal Heights: Because our glamorous ‘hood is kind of gorgeous and kind of a secret, outsiders often experience a sense of heightened awareness when they discover Bernal and all its myriad charms. And because everyone these days is wired up like a mobile multimedia production studio, we regularly get to see Bernal Heights through the eyes of those who are seeing it for the first time.

Leah Giberson showed us one such perspective earlier in the week, and now comes this amazing photo submitted via the Bernalwood Flickr group by giggie larue. In her caption to this photo, giggie writes:

My ex now lives in a part of sf called bernal heights. less than a mile from where we lived together. for some reason we had never happened upon this neighborhood before.

visiting him these past weeks, i’ve discovered one of the most amazing hidden jewels in this gem of a city. narrow streets that curve up and down and round and round, often interrupted by stairways where the road can’t follow through without razing a hillside, even the thought of which mortifies.

the houses range from tiny, quaint, gorgeous late 1800’s to crazy tacky 50’s kitsch, 60’s mod, 80’s spaceage, and contemporary japanese-inspired; mostly compact abodes, with various styles of fencing and courtyards, and masses of foliage and flowers, including in community gardens. everyone has dogs, and there are tiny little dog parks tucked in the most surprising of places. the views are stunning, more than 180 degree points of view. tres old-world euro village.

as is my wont, i’ve been wandering to see what i can see. turned one corner and up this increasingly steep hill were these 2 people. having nothing to do with one another, but sitting and reading the same. no, no bus stops here. just what people do in san francisco, without feeling conspicuous, or “weird” as a pittsburgh friend once told me i looked while doing yoga stretches outside, at his mailbox as we talked.

Wish i would’ve known of this neighborhood long ago.

Funny thing is, a lot people who now live in Bernalwood would probably say the exact same thing.

PHOTO: giggie larue

Off The Hill: A Vegan Tenderloin, NIMBY vs. Slim’s, 26 Great New Restaurants, and a Curious Cosmonaut

Let’s review some things that have been happening elsewhere in San Francisco (while we weren’t really paying attention):

City Faces $380 Million Budget Deficit, Considers Layoffs for City Workers (SF Chronicle)

PETA Proposes Silly Meatless Name Change for the Tenderloin District (SFist)

A Graphic History of Paper MUNI Fast Passes (Muni Diaries)

Michael Bauer Adds 26 New Restaurants to the Bay Area Top 100 (InsideScoop)

Fun-Hating NIMBY Temporarily Shuts Down Slim’s in SOMA (Uptown Almanac)

Mysterious Cosmonauts Sighted in Lower Haight, Then Vanish (Haighteration)

IMAGE: Muni Diaries

Spring is Here

Did anybody notice how the temperature rose 10 degrees on Wednesday afternoon?

One minute, I’m sitting in the shade at the Giants’ game thinking that I should put my jacket on, then suddenly there’s a warm wind blowing in my face. (No, I wasn’t at the hot dog stand.) Anyway… that, and other signs, can only mean one thing.

Who Is the Mysterious Swordsman of Bernal Hill?

Did you happen to see a stray ninja on Bernal Hill last weekend? Or some dude who looked like he made a wrong turn on the way home from a Dungeons and Dragons marathon? Over on the Bernalsafe mailing list, one commenter asks:

Does anyone know anything about the guy who is seen on Bernal Hill with a sword? I heard a bunch of sirens go up the hill over the weekend (Sunday, around 2pm or 3pm) and my brother just happened to be walking to my house at the time. He saw an officer with an assault rifle (that’s what he called it, I don’t know one gun from another) creeping through the tall grass… he asked what was going on and they said something about a guy walking around with a sword. They apparently did not find the guy.

I was waiting for the Ingleside Newsletter for more info, but it doesn’t appear to have made the cut. My brother said the cops have had more than one report about this guy. Not sure what he is doing with the sword, maybe he’s just really into role playing or something?

Just curious.

PHOTO: One Lucky Guy

What a 20something Sees When He Looks at Bernalwood

Ah, to be young and single and living in Bernal Heights. Sure, there are challenges — OMG! So many baby strollers! So many restaurants with abstract names! — but overall it’s pretty chill. Or so says Zane Michael on Nabewise, a website that aspires to be the Yelp of urban geography. Mr. Michael — an aspiring literatus, it seems — wrote a description of life in Bernal Heights that provides an illuminating inter-generational perspective on this place we all happen to call home. His commentary is reprinted here in its entirety, because, really, I couldn’t bring myself to cut a single word.

If You’re in Your Twenties

I don’t do Yoga. I don’t have my own edible backyard garden. I don’t have 2.5 kids. I don’t eat at Restaurants with single word descriptors. I don’t really fit in with the Bernal Height locals, who some might facetiously insinuate are the personification of well-known San Francisco stereotypes. But I still feel amazingly comfortable living in Bernal even if the neighborhood sometimes elicits in me a sense of terror stemming from portentous visions of my amortizing, fettered, future.

Incontrovertibly, the biggest draw of this neighborhood is the location. Its location makes it the perfect fit for the East Bay or South Bay commuter; the 101 and 280 are both relatively close and accessible. If you depart in the morning prior to 7 A.M., you will generally be unlikely to encounter heavy traffic driving southward. And if you are coming north by auto in the evening, you egress prior to the real heavy freeway traffic that normally begins immediately after the Cesar Chavez exit. At the 22nd St. Station in the nearby Potrero Hill neighborhood you can catch the natty Caltrain south and travel as far as San Jose.

For the person that works in downtown SF, the North Bay, or East Bay, the 24th St. Mission BART Station lies less than a mile away and you can easily get anywhere in the entire city relatively quickly by bike or bus. Another attractive feature is the abundance of free parking especially in comparison with other SF neighborhoods where a parking space may cost two hundred dollars a month or more. In the picturesque area surrounding Precita Park where I reside on the North side of Bernal Heights Hill parking can be obtained almost any time excluding Sunday evening. I have not frequently ventured over to the quaint Cortland Avenue mini-village area and hence cannot comfortably impart any information pertaining to parking or dining in that sub-locale.

Verdant and halcyon, Precita Park itself is a lovely urban reprieve and usually brimming with canines of all shapes and sizes expending their pent up energy. On summer days, locals gather to blithely doze in the sunshine and consume organic picnic feasts gathered from nearby Cancilla Market. A short vertical hike up Folsom St. will take you to the top of Bernal Heights Hill, home to one of the largest off leash dog parks in the city and boasting a terrific panoramic view that would make any snapshot obsessed tourist jump for joy. Weather-wise, the neighborhood experiences slightly warmer temperatures being located in one of the several hot spots scattered throughout the city.

Being adjacent to the callow and infamous Mission district, where even the weather is hip, makes for a bevy of nightlife options for both young and old living in Bernal Heights. For the penurious late-night diner, there exists a plethora of relatively inexpensive ethnic restaurant options in the Mission district. It’s easy to mosey over to an exciting attraction on Mission St. or Valencia St. and return home to repose in lenitive tranquility: giving you the best of both worlds. This also works out well when my Mom comes to visit and lauds me for living in such a “cute” area with charming Victorian homes. I reward her by telling her inquiring suburban housewife friends that I live off of Cesar Chavez St. in SF—eliciting a look of fear in response. All jokes aside, I have never felt unsafe in Bernal Heights even when walking or jogging solo late at night. The only time I have felt genuine fear was when I accidently threw away a pizza box in a peevish ponytailed neighbor’s recycle bin. That’s not recyclable dude!

Of course slightly cheaper rent or home prices can be found elsewhere in SF. Few other SF nabes though can brag about having a little something for everyone: commuter, outdoor enthusiast, or dog lover. Nor can anyone deny the pleasure of having an idyllic small-town experience in a big city.

If visiting, be sure to check out Mitchell’s ice cream for tropical flavors like coconut or purple yam; the treasure trove of LPs at dilapidated Thrillhouse Records; Alemany’s Farmers Market for fresh produce; pupusas and futbol at Balompie Café 3; The Knockout for sweet tunes and cheap booze; and the adorable Bike Basket Pies.

Photo by Thomas Hawk

La Lengua Receives Official Recognition on the Map That Matters Most

I don’t know whether to laugh, sing, or declare martial law, but regardless…

Our uppity neighbors to the west, aka the vassals of La Lengua, have received some noteworthy recognition of their autonomous status — in the form of a unique neighborhood label on Google Maps. Check out the screen capture above, or look for yourself.

The Overlords of Bernalwood send congratulations to the Denizens of La Lengua. Si se pueda, juevos rancheros, and all that…