The Bauer explored the menu. The Bauer ate. The Bauer observed. And in the end, The Bauer awarded Hillside Supper Club two stars (out of a possible four). The Bauer’s review was loving but firm:
Owners [Tony Ferrari and Jonathan Sutton] clearly have vision and talent, but could use an editor; in some cases, the embellishments diminish the effect on such otherwise excellent combinations as handmade cavatelli with lamb sugo. I loved it until I got a sweet, acidic burst of pickled pomegranate. A fresh contrast is always nice on a long-cooked sauce, but in this case the effect was jolting.
Yet for all its minor flaws in food and service, the room was packed with customers and goodwill. Hillside feels like a club – a neighborhood gathering place in an underserved residential area. In the end, that’s what counts.
PHOTO: HSC Chefs Tony Ferrari (left) and Jonathan Sutton. By John Storey for the San Francisco Chronicle