In case you missed it, last week’s SF Examiner included a tasty little write-up about 903 Cortland, the new Sandbox Bakery spinoff that’s wowing Bernalwood:

Mutsumi Takehara — mother of two, elite pastry chef and owner of the Sandbox Bakery in Bernal Heights — wanted a place in her neighborhood where parents and kids could have a good time eating together. Her bakery started that mission two years ago, but 903, her restaurant down the block, completes it.

The tiny space has an open kitchen with an ordering counter and only 15 seats around three communal tables in the back, not counting the high chairs lined up against the wall. Thai chef Nute Chulasuwan and Mexican chef Miguel Rosas play in the kitchen, each day creating dishes for the daily-changing menu.

With Takehara’s Japanese sensibility, 903 becomes a United Nations of cooking: Japanese, Thai, Mexican.

And American, because Mutsumi’s contractor husband, Mike Bradsord, is responsible for moist smoked brisket and chickens that turn on the rotisserie he installed. Some dishes insouciantly fuse two or three national cuisines, though others represent just one.

PHOTO: 903 Cortland’s rice burger filled with Japanese fried chicken. SF Examiner via Sandbox Bakery